

All our Piston and Cylinder choices use the thickest cylinder walls available, we do NOT use "Slip In" piston sets under any circumstances! This is a really solid, mild performance engine that you want to build but don't have the time, knowledge, or special tools! We only offer solid lifters, we do not sell, use, nor recommend hydraulic lifters.Īircooled.Net Dual Port 84mm Stroker VW Engine Long Block, 84mm Counterweighted Crankshaft, Type 1, 2, and 3, 2161cc, 2234cc, or 2332cc is for people that have serious intentions on all around power for their ride! No low end parts in this beast! We can build this mild for the widest possible power band and virtually stock reliability, or more radical for "Weekend Warrior" configuration. These engines offer a substantial increase in torque (GRUNT!) over stock stroke engines. We only offer these in Dual Port, so make sure you have the correct tin and intake manifold(s). These long blocks will fit all cars, but the are a direct bolt-in to 1971 and newer Beetles and Ghias, 1971 T-2s, and 1967 and newer T-3s. This long block is a far nicer engine that the "Magazine Engines" you see for sale for seemingly incredible prices. Agree and ContinueĪircooled.Net Dual Port 82mm Stroker VW Engine Long Block, 82mm Counterweighted Crankshaft, Type 1, 2, and 3, 2110cc, 2180cc, or 2275cc is for people that have serious intentions on all around power for their ride! No low end parts in this beast! We can build this mild for the widest possible power band and virtually stock reliability, or more radical for "Weekend Warrior" configuration. Thank you for your continued support and understanding. Your requested items might be significantly delayed by supplier-level backorder timeframes, and we usually aren't given reliable ETA information. Please only continue if you are prepared to be PATIENT. And of course, you can also email to cancel un-shipped/un-paid items at any time as long as they are not special order or made/machined-to-order. You can trust that even if we can't reply to your email, we ARE working on it and will contact you when we have any updated news to share. We work diligently to source and fulfill backordered items as best we can - backorders with unreliable restock ETAs are VERY frustrating for us as well. Placing an order request adds you to the reservation waitlist for out of stock items.

Instead, to get stock status, place an order request, and the items will ship if they are in-stock, OR we will post an itemized stock status for delayed items typically within 2-3 business days.

Please do NOT email to inquire for stock status. We are doing what we can to recover from the changes to our industry and the effects they have had on our business, but currently a lot of shipments are delayed and our response time to emails are slow (we are severely short-staffed). Supply-chain disruptions have hampered our company's ability to restock items reliably. ALL start their gassers and let them warm up for 15-20 minutes.really stinks up the neighborhood.then they complain about pollution.and gas prices.Many sought after parts are backordered these days. My neighbors.all around me(I'd guess >50%). I always have to remind myself that the OIL TEMP probably is NOT fully warm until 5-10 minutes later, so I resist dipping into the torque of the engine. Takes another 4-5 minutes for the SG to read 198. Dash gauge reads about 25f higher than SG, gets to "operating temp" while SG reads 165f or so. Dash gauge needle is on the 1st or 2nd mark. To clarify, there is NO pump in the Frostheater, just convection moves the coolant.īoth my cars have the Frostheater (yes, a bit of overkill, but it makes start-up uneventful.hoping it will help things last longer.) According to my Scangauge II, when it's about 25f ambient, coolant initially reads 130f, then drops to 105-110f, after the heated coolant gets mixed in. Ottawa? There's a "District of Columbia" in be a neighborhood thing.
